Here are a few thoughts on the restaurant tour that totally sabotaged my healthy eating habits yesterday (Oct. 10). My mouth is still watering. This chance to see the third floor dining area bustling with activity was one of those moments when friends and relatives should envy my job. We’re talking about six restaurants and three plus hours of eating, drinking and hearing people passionate about both — plugging their various new establishments.
If your memories of food and this locale revolve around a quick bite at the old food court, prepare to be amazed. My vote for the hardest working chef in Atlantic City yesterday was Dublin-born Martin Doyle, who is the executive chef in charge of Boston restaurateur Patrick Lyons’ three Pier offerings, Sonsie, Trinity Pub and Game On. He was on triple duty yesterday. With charming Sonsie GM Andrea Luca Rossi giving us the tour and telling us, "Top service means treating everyone like a high roller," it was on to a lineup of signature dishes by Doyle and his staff. The tea smoked duck breast was heavenly, as were the white corn and jalapeno cakes that come with it. Steak was also on tap: Hanger steak, Filet Mignon and a massive 42oz. Porterhouse entree. This was just the beginning.
Next up on the tour was one half of the Philly-based contribution to the Pier, The Continental, with a nifty fifties ambience. Director of Restaurants Bradlee Bartram says the look is inspired by a Vegas coffee house, but it will remind locals of Wildwood’s do wop architecture. Down in the Sammy Davis Jr. Room, we were offered a few quick bites — grilled Thai chicken, tuna tartare skins — and a selection of signature cocktails. I gave the pomegranate juice daiquiri a try; it was yummy.
After a quick peak at the kitchen, it was on to the other Philadelphia restaurant that shares the kitchen space, Buddakan. Designed to look like a Chinese village, I could imagine Jackie Chan or Jet Li staging a martial arts throw down, leaping from the mezzanine onto the long communal table as the huge laughing Buddha looked on. While my stomach was beginning to feel the pinch of the multi-tastings, I couldn’t resist tasting the boneless char sui spare ribs flavored with Hoisen sauce and a cocktail of sparking white wine mixed with macerated berries.
Seafood was served as we gazed upon the Atlantic Ocean at Phillips Seafood, the legendary Maryland-based company. We were happy to help the restaurant train their staff for its grand opening Oct. 16 by enjoying the classic Phillips broiled crabcake, and share the signature cold seafood plateau featuring extra jumbo lump crab, jumbo shrimp, a half lobster, oysters, clams and tuna ceviche. We were then given the bums’ rush to continue the tour.
Martin Doyle was up to bat again at Trinity Irish Pub, where his comfort food with an upscale component was lined up at the bar once again. I managed to taste Doyle’s direct from Ireland Dublin coddle, a traditional casserole of pork sausage, Irish bacon, potatoes and leeks, and the toasted oatmeal and Irish whiskey crème brulee. The brulee was especially tasty on top of a ginger snap.
Finally, as we struggled to walk, it was time to check out the 90 high def TVs that are part of the $750,000 sound system at Game On. This direct-from-Fenway Park sports bar concept was up and running for last week’s Eagles-Cowboys game and the house was rocking. The menu features the food favorites of regional sports fans, from the Chicago dog to the Philly-style cheese steak and the Pittsburgh sandwich. I could only bring myself to eat one Memphis style BBQ baby back rib with a nice dry rub and sauce on the side.
I’m thinking about ordering the New Orleans “Po Boy” when I check back this Sunday for the Eagles vs. New Orleans.